Saturday, December 20, 2008

quick

Just a quick update to let everyone know all is going well here. We swore in yesterday as volunteers after two months of training. It was a big ordeal with the U.S. ambasador and local government and press. The buz here is that, of the entire group that came to Burkina in October, no one has left yet, which we are all very proud of.

Most of us still have about a week in Ouahigouya before going to site, during which we will be doing our shopping and other things to get ready for service. On my list is a lipico mat, a gas stove, and a table and chairs. I leave the day after Christmas.

My counterpart, Valantin Bako, who I will be working with for the next two years, is the mayor of neighboring Godyr (see previous post). Valantin is a hell of a charater and stole the show during our "counterpart workshop" by showing up a day late on a rigged motercycle with a dead rabit on the back. He had left Godyr at three in the morning and hit the rabit on his way during the night. It was roadkill but the first thing he did after introducing himself was insist that I take it home for rabit stew. Jury is still out on rabit meat, but I think I could go without it. Others here disagree.

There is a lot of talk of Maranga trees these days, a tree that sheds a leaf seemingly more nutritious than pretty much everything in the world. A plant called Djtrofa (sp?) is next in line, as it seems to have the potential for being an amazing source for bio-fuels. Additionally, both stop desertification and could be in the works for projects I'll be working on for the next two years. I will keep everyone posted.

I love you all, and hope everyone has a great christmas this year. I'll be trying to send some emails out over the holidays to catch up more individually, so be on the lookout. Also, please give me a call if you get a chance, as I would love to talk.

All the best,
Love,

brekke

ps : FAMILY: call me!

Monday, December 15, 2008

Dancehall Protestantism

My host father, Zideouemba, is a deacon for the local protestant church. On Sundays, we walk in together and sit at the front, and my host mother, Mariam, moves to the right side of the room with the other women, and my sister, Grace, moves to the left with the children. The service is more than three hours long, which is long.

but you wouldn't notice for at least two hours. I promise. The reason is that my dad, the deacon, is in charge of the music, and he is a real rock star. At first, he walks to the front of the church and someone hands a mic over. It's wired directly to a single huge speaker at the side of the sanctuary. He's wearing his Sunday morning best, a traditional Mossi outfit called the boubou which is kind of like a sheet with arms that you put on over a pair of pants. The pants are also like sheets or maybe like sleeping bags, but this time for your legs.

There are two boys sitting on wooden boxes who wait for his cue, and for a second it is quiet and then there is a bit of distortion while he clears his throat. but suddenly he starts to sing and boogie out of nowhere! The section of women who sit on the right start to yip and yell in response. The two boys start pounding on their boxes and make a mean beat and then I wait for it, because this is my favorite part: the old woman who sits two pews ahead of me starts to move with the rhythm. Its just a bit at first, but pretty soon my dad is tearin' things up up front and grandma just jumps out of her pew and really starts getting down.

The music will kick your ass. You might even cry, because sometimes it all just happens perfectly and you realise you are in this concrete church in Africa where it seems like people have nothing, but once you come to church with them, you're not really sure if it's that they have nothing or that they have everything. and it is hot and dusty and uncomfortable outside, but, the music is killing you and it is just too beautiful. Bite your teeth and keep on swaying. It's cultural faux pas in Burkina to shed a tear, especially out of joy.

Grandma is all the way out on the dance floor now and others have joined her. They form a dance circle and people even show off their moves in the middle. Everyone is clapping, and the melody is swift. When my dad yells out during the song he does it in the way someone would yell out "Chicago, make some noise!" at a concert, but he says, "Bark Wend Na!" which means Praise God, and everyone yips and yells in response again, like we did when we were little kids playing cowboys and indians. I get the shivers every time.

We go home after church and clean house and do laundry. The Sunday afternoon meal is banga which is exclusive to Sundays. It is rice and beans with oil but it is delicious like you wouldn't believe. After we eat, I go to my room and promise myself that next Sunday I won' be such a wall-flower. My host dad is the deacon after all, it would be bad form to keep showing up with such stiff legs.